三九養(yǎng)生堂記者 鄧肯·蓋伊 報(bào)道
精彩| 古??(gu)俗??(su)重??(zhong)陽(yáng)??(yang)節(jié)??(jie)慣??(guan)飲??(yin)菊?(ju)花??(hua)酒??(jiu)“以??(yi)消??(xiao)陽(yáng)??(yang)九??(jiu)之??(zhi)厄??(e)”??，至??(zhi)近??(jin)代??(dai)釀??(niang)菊??(ju)花??(hua)酒??(jiu)的??(de)風(fēng)?(feng)俗??(su)已??(yi)經(jīng)??(jing)流??(liu)傳??(chuan)不??(bu)多??(duo)??。??不??(bu)過(guò)??(guo)到??(dao)了?(le)秋?(qiu)冬??(dong)之??(zhi)交??(jiao)??，北??(bei)京??(jing)各??(ge)大??(da)飯??(fan)莊??(zhuang)紛??(fen)紛??(fen)推??(tui)出??(chu)“菊??(ju)花??(hua)鍋??(guo)子??(zi)”薦??(jian)新??(xin)??，與??(yu)菊??(ju)花??(hua)酒??(jiu)有??(you)異??(yi)曲??(qu)同??(tong)工??(gong)之??(zhi)妙??(miao)??。這??(zhe)是??(shi)一??(yi)例?(li)以??(yi)菊??(ju)花??(hua)入??(ru)饌??(zhuan)、以??(yi)火??(huo)鍋??(guo)滾??(gun)湯??(tang)涮??(shuan)熟??(shu)的??(de)湯?(tang)菜??(cai)??，講??(jiang)究?(jiu)的??(de)商?(shang)家??(jia)用??(yong)排?(pai)骨??(gu)吊??(diao)的??(de)高??(gao)湯??(tang)做??(zuo)鍋??(guo)底??(di)??，在??(zai)滾?(gun)沸??(fei)時(shí)??(shi)倒??(dao)入??(ru)切??(qie)得??(de)極??(ji)薄??(bo)的??(de)魚??(yu)片??(pian)、蝦??(xia)仁??(ren)、雞??(ji)片??(pian)等??(deng)??，最??(zui)后??(hou)澆??(jiao)上??(shang)一??(yi)盤??(pan)白??(bai)菊??(ju)花?(hua)瓣??(ban)??，一??(yi)燙??(tang)即??(ji)熟??(shu)??，以??(yi)湯??(tang)奉??(feng)客??(ke)??，菊?(ju)香??(xiang)繞??(rao)舌??(she)??。如??(ru)今??(jin)各??(ge)地??(di)推??(tui)出??(chu)“萬(wàn)??(wan)壽??(shou)菊??(ju)花??(hua)鍋?(guo)”??，以??(yi)涮??(shuan)肉??(rou)為??(wei)主?(zhu)喝??(he)湯??(tang)為??(wei)輔??(fu)??，又??(you)采??(cai)用?(yong)黃??(huang)色??(se)菊??(ju)花??(hua)下??(xia)鍋??(guo)??，可??(ke)以??(yi)說(shuō)??(shuo)是??(shi)民??(min)國(guó)??(guo)“菊??(ju)花??(hua)鍋??(guo)子??(zi)”的??(de)當(dāng)??(dang)代??(dai)發(fā)??(fa)展??(zhan)??。 紅??(hong)薯??(shu)、芋??(yu)頭??(tou)、栗??(li)子??(zi)、蘿??(luo)卜?(bu)等??(deng)富??(fu)含??(han)淀??(dian)粉??(fen)的??(de)蔬??(shu)果??(guo)在??(zai)御??(yu)寒??(han)時(shí)??(shi)也??(ye)積??(ji)攢??(zan)下??(xia)足??(zu)夠??(gou)的??(de)甘?(gan)甜??(tian)??。??霜??(shuang)降??(jiang)前?(qian)后??(hou)適??(shi)宜??(yi)收??(shou)獲??(huo)食??(shi)用??(yong)紅?(hong)薯??(shu)和??(he)芋??(yu)頭??(tou)??。農(nóng)??(nong)諺??(yan)曰??(yue)“寒??(han)露??(lu)早??(zao)??，立??(li)冬??(dong)遲??(chi)??，霜??(shuang)降??(jiang)收??(shou)薯??(shu)正??(zheng)適?(shi)宜??(yi)”??。清??(qing)時(shí)??(shi)??，嶺?(ling)南??(nan)有?(you)霜??(shuang)降??(jiang)“打??(da)芋??(yu)煲??(bao)”的??(de)飲??(yin)食??(shi)習(xí)??(xi)俗??(su)??，孩??(hai)童??(tong)撿??(jian)拾??(shi)瓦??(wa)片??(pian)砌??(qi)成??(cheng)中??(zhong)空??(kong)寶??(bao)塔??(ta)??，從??(cong)內(nèi)??(nei)部??(bu)點(diǎn)??(dian)燃??(ran)??，燒??(shao)紅??(hong)后??(hou)毀??(hui)塔??(ta)煨??(wei)芋??(yu)而??(er)食?(shi)之??(zhi)??。栗??(li)子??(zi)是??(shi)霜??(shuang)降??(jiang)進(jìn)??(jin)補(bǔ)?(bu)的??(de)佳??(jia)品??(pin)??，南??(nan)宋??(song)詩(shī)??(shi)人??(ren)陸??(lu)游??(you)深??(shen)諳??(an)其??(qi)中??(zhong)三?(san)味??(wei)??，留??(liu)下?(xia)了??(le)不??(bu)少??(shao)贊??(zan)美??(mei)的??(de)詩(shī)??(shi)篇?(pian)??。然??(ran)而??(er)最??(zui)觸??(chu)動(dòng)??(dong)人?(ren)的??(de)??，還??(hai)是??(shi)他??(ta)晚??(wan)年??(nian)所??(suo)作??(zuo)《夜??(ye)食??(shi)炒??(chao)栗?(li)有??(you)感??(gan)》??，以??(yi)及??(ji)《老??(lao)學(xué)??(xue)庵??(an)筆??(bi)記?(ji)》中??(zhong)炒?(chao)栗??(li)高??(gao)手??(shou)李??(li)和??(he)的??(de)故??(gu)事??(shi)??。熱??(re)氣??(qi)騰??(teng)騰??(teng)的??(de)炒?(chao)栗??(li)不??(bu)但??(dan)鉤??(gou)動(dòng)??(dong)陸??(lu)游??(you)的??(de)年?(nian)華??(hua)如??(ru)夢(mèng)??(meng)感?(gan)??，更??(geng)寄??(ji)托??(tuo)了??(le)他??(ta)對(duì)??(dui)于??(yu)祖??(zu)國(guó)??(guo)山??(shan)河??(he)一??(yi)統(tǒng)??(tong)的??(de)拳??(quan)拳??(quan)之??(zhi)思?(si)??。
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